Published Sunday 24th of November 2013 // Updated Wednesday 10th of May 2017
Epoxy and urethane sealers are typically polymer solutions that are rolled onto the surface of a concrete slab, giving it excellent abrasion and spill resistance while enhancing the concretes visual appeal. Epoxies and urethanes are much stronger than acrylic sealers, making it a much better choice if you need a surface sealer in a high traffic area. They are frequently used in large retail stores, industrial areas, and warehouse floors; they are even used in most airports.
Application Instructions are as follows:
Avoid contact with skin, eyes and clothing. Wash hands after use and do not take internally. Please refer to the product Safety Data Sheet (SDS) before using. The preparation process should be followed to ensure adequate penetration and optimum performance:
Step 1: The concrete substrate must be structurally sound, thoroughly dry and clean.
Step 2: Remove all paints, previous sealers and/or adhesives before application.
Step 3: The substrate must be clean of oil, grease, dirt, wax, curing compounds, efflorescence and other contaminants that might interfere with the penetration of the sealer.
Step 4: For a one or two coat thin build system (3-10 mils dry) we recommend either mechanical scarification or acid etching until a suitable profile is achieved. For a complete system build higher than 10 mils dry, we recommend a fine brush blast (shot blast). If acid is used to clean the concrete, neutralize the surface completely and rinse it with water prior to application. Then wait for the concrete to dry out for at least 24-48 hours.
Step 5: The surface-zone moisture content of the concrete should not exceed 4%wt. A test should be made to determine that the concrete has an appropriate vapor barrier. This can be done by placing a 4’X4’ plastic sheet on the substrate and taping down the edges. If after 24 hours, the substrate is still dry below the plastic sheet, then the substrate does not show signs of eventual hydrostatic pressure problems that may later cause disbanding.
Step 6: Cover all surrounding areas not intended to be coated.
Step 7: New concrete must be cured for at least 28 days before sealing.
Mixing: This product comes pre-packaged by weight. Kits should be mixed in their entirety. Epoxy 325 A and Epoxy 325 B should be thoroughly mixed before combining. Scrape the bottom and sides of each container. Epoxy 325 A and Epoxy 325 B can then be combined (Epoxy 325 is sold as a pre-packaged kit and Epoxy 325 Part A should be mixed in its entirety with Epoxy 325 Part B). After the two parts are combined, mix well with slow speed mixing equipment such as a jiffy mixer until the material is thoroughly mixed and streak free. This product is an emulsion product and should be mixed well before using.
Application: Test the sealer in an inconspicuous area to ensure the desired coverage and appearance is achieved. The mixed material can be applied by brush or roller. Workable time is about 1 hour. Maintain temperatures within the recommended ranges during the application and curing process. Apply material with relative humidity within the parameters. When the end of the pot life has been reached, you will find that the material becomes hard to apply and will actually tend to roll back up onto the roller. Do not try to continue application when the coating has reached this step. Applications made at different times with differing environmental conditions, may show slight variations in gloss. Coverage is approximately 200 sq. ft. per gallon. Make sure you test the surface for dryness prior to use and allow at least 8 hours before walking. A full cure will take up to 7 days to complete.
Recoating/Topcoating: If you opt to recoat or topcoat this product, you must first be sure that all of the solvents and water have evaporated from the coating during the curing process. However, it is best to test the coating before recoating or topcoating. This can be done by pressing on the coating with your thumb to verify that no fingerprint impression is left. If no impression is created, then the recoat or topcoat can be started. Always remember that colder temperatures will require more cure time for the product before recoating or topcoating can commence. Before recoating or topcoating, check the coating to insure no epoxy blushes were developed (a whitish, greasy film or deglossing). If a blush is present, it must be removed prior to topcoating or recoating. A standard type detergent cleaner can be used to remove any blush. Many epoxy overlays and coatings as well as urethanes are compatible for use as a topcoat for this product as well as multiple coats of this product.